Objective Summary
Since I want to log my own memories but at the same time am mindful that there are people who use these logs for their own pre-journey research, I begin with this summary - sans my own experiences and ramblings along the way, with a hope that it might assist others in my wake to put together their perfect trip, just as I hope to learn from others experiences ahead of my own future endeavours.
Firstly. It’s cold. It IS the Arctic - at least for some of the trip - so this should not come as a surprise. But HOW cold it is, might. I packed 3 pairs of base layer trousers - 1 silk, 2 merino wool (1x L, 1x X-LARGE to fit over them) on the days I did excursions up north (ie Dogsledding) or the nights I spent significant time outside viewing the Aurora Borealis, I wore all three underneath my thermal ski trousers and I could then call myself comfortable. For the top half of me I wore a short sleeved merino shirt, a long sleeve merino jumper (at least 260 weight) a Large Zip up windproof jumper and an X-Large windproof lip up jumper under a waterproof coat with a hat and gloves before I could call myself comfortable. The gloves need to be substantial. I had fingerless gloves with a mitten attachment for my camera, which was a compromise I had to make for my photography, but my fingers quickly suffered for it. So did my nose. You might consider a balaclava or one of those hats that have a combined facepiece. It’s not just cold - its so cold it feels like you face is being stabbed with thousands of tiny shards of ice. That said, I am told that our trip was an unprecedented 10 degrees colder in all areas than it usually is.
The restaurant staff are lovely. Nadine, keriann, Josefine, Elene and Tomas.
That’s the upstairs staff. I kind of got the impression that all staff from deck 4 would rather we all got out and swam. There was not even a token smile from a single member of staff at the door upon my return from excursions. That said, I guess they aren’t paid to be service staff. To them, answering the door to us is just a pain in the ass job that keeps them from doing what they are actually paid to do. None of us like those jobs.
Sea Sickness. You might think you don’t get it. I thought that. I’m not prone to such things. I politely recommend that you take something with you just in case. It takes up barely any space or weight in your suitcase and it can make or break a couple of those rougher days. We encountered Storm Ingrunn on our Northbound journey. Particularly being on the highest passenger deck, I felt like I was swaying in the branch’s of a palm tree. I was fine. I really was. Then really rather suddenly I wasn’t.
Pack walking studs - Yaktrax are popular. I did. I didn’t wear them, thinking my purpose designed very expensive walking shows would be perfectly adequate for the task. I slipped on ice a few days in at Bodø and twisted my ankle so badly that I was limping for the remainder of the holiday. Trust me, spending an hour every morning crying whilst trying to summon the strength to power through the pain enough to put on your shoe is no way to relax. Wear them. Walk with caution.
Food - For those of us who would describe that limit of their culinary adventurousness to be a cheeseburger with mushrooms instead of onions, this trip will prove to be an experience. A very positive one. The round trip menu offers a number of staple items that do not change throughout the trip, but the northbound and southbound menus change depending on the region you are cruising through. I tried Reindeer Broth, had Ratatoille for the first time, Pannacotta for the first time, Cloud berries and sour cream for the first time, and in my endeavours to eat healthier gave seafood much more consideration than I normally would - trying cod cheek, halibut, Char, prawns and mussels at regular intervals alongside my staple of Harvila’s crispy potatoes (chips. They have chips) I enjoyed everything I ate - even the things I ordered out of intrigue but with a fair degree of certainty that I would regret.
IF you are not so inclined to explore outside of your culinary comfort zone there is the Havila Cafe, which - and I had to learn this from a fellow passenger, because it was not made known to be by Havila themselves - if there is a cup symbol next to the item on the menu, it is included for Havila Voyage cruise passengers (that’s us!) It includes burgers. normally great news for me, but I did not learn this until day 10 of my 12 day voyage, and by that time I was committed to culinary exploration. But it is an option. Let it be known by all who travel with Havila in future cruises.
Excursions - uh, can’t really help you there. The busted ankle saw to that. The only excursion I FORCED myself to go on was the Dog sledding at Kirkenese. It was pleasant. Fun even. Worth £245? Well at home, no way in hell, but when abroad one is expected to pay through the nose to experience what they are unlikely to experience back at home. I did. I’m glad I did. The ride was gentle but pleasant through a very picturesque landscape and the dogs had such very lovely natures when I worked down the line to thank and snuggle each of them at the end of the ride. DO please give the dogs some love. They work hard and they appear to genuinely enjoy the micro doses of affection between rides. The excursion also included viewing the reindeer and a visit to the similarly located ice hotel.
Ports - same as above. I didn’t get off at any barring Bodø and Kirkenes because my limited mobility not only made an uncomfortable experience of it, but also impeded my ability to get to and from places in the time I would normally set myself. Too much risk. And frankly, I came for the Northern Lights and the Dog-sledding. Having already accomplished my intended itinerary I was very content to henceforth remain in the snuggly warm ship watching the view go by while I alternated between my audio book, music, writing, reading and periodic micro gym sessions.
Passengers. I came here for intentional solitude. I have a very people-centric job and fairly chaotic life and 2 weeks of unplugging was what I needed. And mostly I got it, having been quite (politely) frank to people about my intentions to remain in my own company. Irrespective (though I didn’t conduct a physical head account) I would guesstimate that there were perhaps a maximum of 200 cruise guests on this voyage, and over 11 days of being consistently in each others company in relatively small surroundings, you grow familiar with one another. Whether it’s just a friendly “good morning” in passing or a full blown discourse on the Lights, View, Food or Weather each time your paths cross - You will not feel alone. Even if you really, REALLY want to. (That last part is an exaggeration. People were very courteous and mindful of other peoples space. Chatter was easily had if invited, but also space was to be had if one opted not to involve oneself)
Activities / entertainment - There is none, per se. You want to play games or watch TV, bring your own. but there were enough excursions, ports, amazing views and a speckling of talks in the conference centre to keep those who require stimulus from bouncing off the walls. I was fortunate enough to find myself - purely coincidentally - upon an Astronomy Cruise. By this, at this time, this meant that we had an Astronomy Lecturer from the Royal Astronomical Society Ian Ridpath on board who provided near-daily lectures on various astronomical themes such as (of course) The Northern Lights, Constellations, When we walked on the Moon, Lunar and Solar Eclipses etc. My understanding that there is also a spot of star gazing on deck after sundown but on the occasions I was up there it was either cloudy or focused on the Aurora Borealis. Again I had the good fortune to run into a fellow passenger who was passionate about the subject, so I got my stargazing session in irrespective. The same will likely be for yourself. Under these circumstances passengers become friends, and there is always someone to learn a little something from.
Summary of trip and recommendations done. The following are for my own memory and are likely of no interest to anyone other than myself. Feel free to bail now, but I hope that my experiences help you to design your own perfect trip!
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PRE HOLIDAY
It was a last minute thing. As usual I had saved up the bulk of my annual leave for some worthy occasion that never happened and ultimately wound up with 11 days I needed to use up within 3 months. 2.5 months really, since my working opposite had done exactly the same.
Figured some kind of holiday was in order, since the alternative would be to sit at home for 2 full weeks fretting about the accumulating work.
Since my travel options were limited to between January and March before my annual leave reset, this seemed an ideal opportunity to strike the Northern Lights off my Bucket List. I have always put it off due to the expense of the holiday. I nearly did a number of times this time also.Being a solo traveller put the price up yet further and when I first starting looking into options even the cheapest options were coming out at in excess of £3500. By the end of my day of research and compromising I had a full board cruise and flights package at £2049. Still gut-wrenchingly hefty, but much more acceptable from where I started and a somewhat justifiable expense for an ‘experience’ rather than a mere holiday as well as for 2 weeks where ‘technically’ I would not have to pay for anything else. (I immediately purchased a dog sledding excursion at £249, and consequently entirely annihilated this justification, but I still had the ‘experience not holiday’ thing to full back on)
I also initially sought to book with Hurtigruten, who have been established in the trade for as long as I can remember and have a Northern Lights guarantee that if there are no Northern Lights during the tour, then you will be given a further 6 day tour for free. Further research revealed that newer company Havila provide the same promise, with the addition of new ships with more of a focus on passenger comfort, and were £200 cheaper to book with than Hurtgruten. Once booked in with Havila (via the kind assistance . of Suitcase Traveller, through-which I discovered the difference between Havila and Hurtigruten in the first place) the jittery restless feeling of an indecision went away and I was looking forward to the trip.
THE HOLIDAY COMMENCES
Hurricane!
Yup. The alerts pop up on my facebook feed the day before I leave, incurring the inevitable panic of mass contacting any and all parties to check whether it is still going ahead - if I need to contact my travel insurance - yadda yadda yadda. My tour operator assures me that they have heard nothing from Havila to indicate that the trip will be cancelled. This does little to alleviate my panic and I sleep very little that night, waking up with a headache. I nonetheless power on through to the airport with a sense of muted commitment rather than holiday excitement. Which, looking back on it seems a shame, but I recognise that at the time, not knowing what the future would hold, my emotional responses were limited.
DAY 1
My first night is spent in Bergen. I did a walking tour. The tour guide described Bergen as the rainiest city in the world, and I have seen nothing to evidence the contrary so far. Fortunately since all the guests on the tour were aware that their travels would be taking them into arctic territory, we were all dressed for a snow avalanche, and therefore rain was water off a tourists back.
The background concerns regarding the storm continue. Havila have now contacted my tour operator to confirm that the ship cannot make it all the way down to Bergen, but that they have arranged for all travellers in Bergen to be chartered by plane up to meet the ship at Trondheim, where it will continue its journey northwards from there. By 16:00 that afternoon we are all on a Havila booked coach tot he airport, and by 20:30 we are all on the plane bound for Trondheim.
There are 4 coaches. Thanks to a combination of - as ever - having one of the last bags to arrive on the conveyor belt and a generally complacent approach to getting to the next point of the journey, I find myself on the fourth one, at which point I realise that the limited astronomy lectures are going to get snapped up by everyone on buses 1 to 3 along with the most preferred lunch allocations.A concern further compounded by update from the Havila representative that the coach will be being held back to avoid a crush of people at the ship all arriving at the same time. It’s sensible. Again, in hindsight I respect Havila’s forward thinking.But at the time all that is going through my head is ‘i don’t even stand a chance now’.
Fortunately upon my (rather dismal) arrival it is close to 23:00 and it is asking a hell of a lot from the Havila’s staff to have them take down everyone’s preferences and requests atop of the general check in and late night meal. So all bookings are being held off until tomorrow. Yay! I’m still in the game.
DAY 2
The next morning I am up and atom at 06:00 ready to hit the breakfast room dead on 07:00 to get my preferred meal slot. I even have time for a teeny-bopper attempt in the gym before I head down. I get the latest meal slot (no more early mornings for me on this holiday) and a table all by myself (my own request) as far away from other people as possible. The lady - she did good. Upon entering the canteen I was about to ask for a certain table to be mine, when i realised that it already was. Table 32. As lonely a table as there ever could be. Perfection!
Breakfast is perfectly lovely, but unremarkable by comparisons. Scrambled eggs and breakfast sausages with beans and toast. I finish it and set off to explore the ship. Don’t get far. Find a gloriously comfortable highbacked chair by a artificial fireplace right next to the panoramic window at the bow of the ship. This - I have decided - will be my new home. I grab my iPod and DSLR and set up for a morning of general tinkering and procrastination…
I cast an eye over the excursions list. I guess this is my acceptance of my age,, because where once there was a time where I would be frantically trying to crowbar every new experience into my schedule, now I just feel a little hard done by that I will have to leave the comfort of my new hides-hole for the dog sledding that I have already booked.
Just as an aside, in my attempts to be a loner in a quiet corner of the ship, I appear to be socialising more than anyone else from the number of ‘Good mornings’ I have exchanged with passers by. This I can handle. Smile. greet. Move on. If this is cruise socialising, I’m good with it.
All is not idyllic for long. By evening the storm that we were meant to have passed while it continued south and we continued North has somehow nonetheless spread out and caught up with us. Walking on the ship becomes a Thrill Sport - you will take a perfectly normal step but then the ship will surge with a wave and the ground will no longer be where you anticipated it to be. There is a lot of embarrassed laughter and sideways veering. People fall sick before I do, but I do. I fortunately retain my wits for long enough to enjoy the Northern Lights Astronomy Lecture I was so set upon signing up to, but I am straight up to my cabin after it. I didn’t think I needed to vomit per se but I took time to the bathroom just in case and ‘hey, what do you know!’. Bed. For 10 minutes. Then an announcement comes over my cabin tannoy inviting all passengers to the conference room for an update on the journey. I don’t want to move, but it could be too important to not know, so down I trundle once more. The plan is for us to skip the multiple stops from Trondheim and simply cruise straight to Bodo with a view to outrunning the storm that is on our heels. I like this Captain. As sick as the up-down-side-to-side of the sea battered ships travels are making me, I pumped my savings into this bucket list trip to travel as far North as feasible in order to increase my chances of seeing the northern lights, and North we are damn well going to go.
Nonetheless, when the expeditions officer leading the conference moves on to excursions and other non-essential information I take the hint from my warning shot dry-heave and excuse myself once more to my cabin.
At this point I am starting to see the downside of my perfect cabin choice of 7301. I am pretty much among the highest cabins on board and we blow in the wind like the branches of a tree. Ironically the rocking motions ultimately nurse me to sleep.
DAY 3
I am awoken at 06:30 by the tannoy system announcing that we have crossed the arctic circle overnight and are now settled outside the 2nd largest Fjord in Norway for 15 minutes for a photo opportunity. The sea has settled, the ship is calm and so is my stomach, so I pootle up to the outside observation area on deck 9 to to a very awesome and picturesque panoramic view of snowy mountains all around us. Well worth the early morning layering. Pootle to breakfast and offer for a less rich variety this time - the 5 a day bowel (2 cherry tomatoes, some slices of bell pepper, lettuce, cucumber and some other green leafy thing), a bowl of muesli and 2 pastries before meandering to observation deck 8 to watch the fjords go by. I prefer the full window views of deck 6 - unobstructed by the safety rail of the outside viewing platform on deck 8 - however, I DO like that on deck 8 you can sit at the very front of the ship on a swivel chair - because then you can turn in the chair like Patrick Stewarts Captain Picard and say ‘Make it so!’ (Yes - I do this in my head more than once. To the rest of the passengers I must look akin to a dog chasing its tail)
At 10:00am there is the Arctic Ceremony. It is PURE gimmickry but what else ya gonna do. I pootle back outside on deck 8 to watch braver (stupider) people than I volunteer themselves to have some dude with a fake beard ladle iced water down the neck of their shirt (even the back of their trousers in some instances) in exchange for a free shot.
I’ll BUY the shot, thank you.
In fact, no I won’t, remembering my fragility the evening before. There is nothing in this experience for me. I stick around for the mirth and the intermittent squeals, take a few photos of the surrounding fjords, then head back downstairs to the cosy warmth of the viewing platform with a flask of ginger tea. The view unfortunately is somewhat obscured by thick and low cloud cover but the journey is smooth and the passing waves are cathartic. It gives me opportunity to type and research Bodo possibilities.
Oh yes, that reminds me. At 13:00 we are scheduled to reach Bodo. Apparently today 3rd Feb marks the opening day of the Capitial of Culture Year ceremony in Bodo, so there should be things to do. Let’s see what I can find.
Leaving Bodo at 15:20 tomorrow Sunday 4th feb. Second largest town in Norway.
You wouldn’t know it. I zig-zagged through the town before walking up and then back down again the length of the promenade. It is about as big as my hometown and I had completed my explorations - at least of the main portion of town - within an hour.
To be fair, it is probably a perfectly lovely pit-stop for travellers with companions, to get some non-cruise affiliated food and drink. It just doesn’t offer much in the way of exploration.
I head back to my cabin as the sun falls at around 16:00 and download a self-guided walking tour of Bodo for the next day.
DAY 4
Disaster! The self guided tour doesn’t take me very far at all before I slip on ice, and with a very disconcerting crack twist my ankle behind me.
Hurts like hell but when I finally summon the gumption to attempt to put weight on it, I just about manage to. Each time I do is excruciating and I can barely hobble my way back to the ship, but I convince myself that if I’m putting weight on it at least we’re not looking at a break. Anything else time will heal. More or less.
I head straight to my cabin and after taking far too long to be able to take off my shoe I phone down to reception and request an ice pack to attempt to pre-empt the swelling. The lady from reception kindly brings up one of those prepackaged ice packs, which you take out of the packaging, then break/shake before holding to the area in question. Mine leaked little white balls all over everything and didn’t do much at all to soothe the area. I finally resorted to actual ice in a carrier bag, kindly provided by the ever helpful Nadine in the restaurant reception. While icing the area I caught the attention of (some) sympathetic and (mostly) rubbernecking passengers, among whom was Leroy - and American who used to be a sports physiotherapist. He kindly wrapped my ankle with the bandage I was provided by the Havila crew (who had absolutely no idea what to do about me)
Through Leroy I ultimately met Gary - who I encountered again in a further conversation following the daily group catch up. He kindly provided me 3 days worth of Tylenol and some little blue tablets which he said would help with the swelling. Most gratefully received, I don’t even care how cautious one should be about accepting random drugs from random strangers. One tablet or the other makes the pain go away within 30 minutes. I now understand - and entirely support - addiction. (I jest. But only a little. Tylenol rocks!)
Gary also kindly purchased me a glass of wine as he retrieved his own drink to take to his early meal slot with him. It didn’t occur to me to ask if one ought not drink wine with Tylenol until after I was half a glass down. Well, that should be a fun little experiment!
DAY 5
Should be dog sledding today. As it took me over an hour to put on my shoe before breakfast, the breakfast concierge Nadine came upstairs to check on me and subsequently recommended that upon shoring at Tromsø I instead go to the hospital to have my ankle x-rayed.
I do, because common sense should prevail and I have been a touch concerned myself. I advise my
Back at the ship for just before 18:00 when its scheduled set-off was 18:20. Whew!
Lots of walking today. My weakened ankle has taken a hit from it and I spend the time until my 20:00 dinner quasi-napping in my cabin.
No one really makes it past my table over dinner. Everyone wants to know the results from my hospital visit. It is kind, but awkward - because ‘Inconclusive’ is a pretty disappointing update to give. I attempt to provide the positive spin that we have at least ruled out any major fracture or breakage as I have been able to put weight on it though. Gary catches me on route to my cabin and kindly replenishes my supply of Tylenol and that little blue tablet that is supposed to make the swelling go away (Christ, I really do need to get into the habit of at least what asking what drugs I am accepting off effective strangers before downing them like fizzers - but right now pain prevails over all decision making. And Gary seems a little too intent on converting me to God to be roofy-ing me)
Back to Cabin for not too long before the Bow camera I keep on the TV screen in my room shows a green glow emanating in the sky. Could it be?? I’m en-route to the deck when the tannoy announcement confirms that the Aurora Borealis is present and best seen from deck 8 towards the front of the ship.
…. That’s it?!
Okay, so I’m gonna level with you in a way that no one else who has ever bragged about seeing the Aurora Borealis seems inclined to. It’s not a surreal neon-green rapid swirling and snaking across an alien-looking sky. It’s grey and cloudy looking.
I did expect this to some extent from the previous astronomy lecture received on the subject a couple of days previous but this… what has everybody been losing their shit over all this time?
It does get better as the night progresses and as my immediate sense of underwhelm wears off. The fact is, these swirls in the sky ARE the brilliant greens and reds depicted in the camera images. It is just the the camera lenses more sensitive to the respective wavelenghts than our ill-equipped human eyes are. therefore, there IS a surreal alien sky swirling over our heads - we just need the medium of our camera lenses in order to perceive it. Grey or not - my awe is back in place and I am back up onto the icy deck several times until the early hours of the morning capturing the ever changing swirls with my phone camera. I go to bed with “I could have danced all night” from the king and I randomly singing in my head, and wake up the next morning feeling like a schoolgirl in love. Lifelong aspiration accomplished.
DAY 6
Yesterdays ‘excursion’ around the Tromsø hospital and to, from and around deck 8 for the Aurora Borealis shenanighans has definitely been a step back from my weakened ankle. It hurts to put weight on it again and I am relegated back to the crutches to get down to breakfast after taking - yet again - far too long to get my frikkin shoe on past the pain.
I am grateful to not have an excursion booked for when we make port at Honningsvag at 11:00am.
Many people leave the ship at this time. From what I can see out of the window there does appear to be a whole bunch to do if you do not have the excursion booked, but I can understand that if walking is as easy as ‘not walking’ (cocky bastards) then you might as well walk and explore a new port for the few hours that you are there. I have a good window though, and I have seen enough ports already to know that anything that is English or Tourist -friendly is going to be a gimmick, and everything else is going to a Norwegian shop for boring utilities such as wool or basic groceries.
The Nordland museum is just opposite the ship. MAYBE I would visit it if not nursing an injury. But from what I have read up on it online, it’s not going to change my life. Better to rest and heal for the dog sledding tomorrow.
As it is apparently “International Sami Day” Some entertainment is provided in the form of small children dancing with the level of choreography that you expect from small children opposite the ship. It’s adorable I take a photo, having wanted to capture the Sami Flag being waved nearby, but remembering my own reservations about photographing other peoples children, I keep the media posterity to a minimum.
Lunch. More looking at the sea through the window, whilst listening to my erstwhile neglected music. It is a lazy day. I’m good with it.
DAY 7
This morning we make port at Honningsvad - Home of the Nordkapp. A lot of people disembark to wander the port or do the excursion to see the NordKapp monument. It’s a photo op. I care little for such things. Less so with my mullered ankle. It has made me much more selective about when and where I chose to walk. And today I simply choose not to.
International Sami Day Sami children dancing
Lazy day for me on ship. That evening saw the aurora borealis again.
DAY 8
I wake up this morning with a reassuringly less painful and more weight-bearing ankle. It reassures me to the point that I attempt to put on my more hefty snow shoes - which will be the significantly better option given that I am about to set outside for 3 hours in the archive for the rescheduled dog-sled ride I missed during my hospital visit at tromsø.
While we are here we also visited the snow hotel and met the reindeer while they were fed a few snacks of what appeared to my layman eyes to be tumble weed. Meh. They liked it enough.
Whacked my bad ankle whilst dog sledding. Excruciating! And now I have bruising on the other side. Limp is back. Still…. You gotta laugh, right?
Turn around day - Northern most part of our cruise. I spend most of the hours after sundown alternating between star gazing on deck 9 (such a clear and starry sky tonight) and warming up int he Havblikk bar. I met a guy called Yorg (George) from Frankfurt out on the deck this evening. He followed me out on my third trip out onto the deck to kindly point out some of the lesser known constellations. Orion and Cassiopeia I already knew of course. But he points out Jupiter (I never have been very good at planets. As far as my knowledge goes, if it’s shiny and sometimes close to the moon it’s either Saturn or Jupiter. And in a 50/50 guess I always guess wrong) and Cygnus the Swan directly over the ship.
I tried reindeer broth for dinner this evening. Is not as bad as it sounds. Same texture as beef but a touch lighter both in colour and in taste.
The Aurora Borealise presented itself again this evening, in its most spectacular display yet. Ian provides
DAY 9
The ship turned around from its final port of Kirkenes to head the southbound journey back home late yesterday. The realisation of that brings to me a muted resignation that my daily life is soon to re-commence, with its early mornings, long working hours and bombardment of negativity and racism from certain family members. Sigh. It was nice to have the break at least.
I spent a (admittedly rather small) amount of time in the gym this morning, in between getting my laundry done. So that’s another couple of things off my To-Do list. An Astronomy lecture on the planets followed in the early afternoon and after that I simply sat on the observation deck alternating between listening to my audio book, practising with my DSLR and reading Max Lucado’s “Cure for a common life” kindly bequeathed upon me by fellow passenger Gary who seemed to feel that if he couldn’t not convert me to Christianity he could at least help me repair my own life. I appreciate the consideration. The book doesn’t entirely lack merit, even if it is a little bit heavy on religion (which I consider to be near as damnit modern mythology) .
A day goes very quickly doing nothing. I have 3 more of these. It doesn’t quite feel enough.
The Aurora borealis presents itself again in a small way this evening. It’s starting to get a bit same-y now, and the fresh batch of tourists are a lot more of the “pose for 10 full seconds for repeated shots and be damned whoever’s way they are getting in” variety, so I am generally confident to say that I have gotten the need to spend the night viewing them out of my system now.
DAY 10
I overdid it again yesterday. I suspect it was my gym sessions. It did not feel that they were impacting my ankle at the time, and in my mind I was re-fortifying my leg muscles to assist the repair. But my body disagrees. Last night I was woken up several times by the pain now radiating up my lower leg, and this morning I am back to begging whatever god or devil will have me for the strength to put on my shoe.
Tempted to remain in cabin shoeless and viewless but ultimately power through on the understanding that this would be a complete waste. Plus I need breakfast to help re-fuel my bodies supplies of “rebuilding and healing” elements. So I make it to breakfast, and have my hard boiled egg and salmon for protein, my 5 daily vegetables for various trace vitamins, my orange juice for vitamin c and my Original Chai Tea with cinnamon and Ginger for anti-inflammatory properties (see? I really am trying!)
Then hole up by the best window with the comfiest chair for the morning with my notebook, tablet, camera, book and literally anything else that I might be tempted to go back to my cabin for. I - am - not -moving. Ports stopped at: Risøyhamn (small snowy village. Nothing for tourists barring potentionally a “Galleri”.
DAY11 to DAY 13
….With regret, the notes of my final couple of days are incomplete - largely on account of a blend of pain, medication, and unending stream concerned/curious (admittedly mostly curious) company and little else to log. Suffice to say, the cruise ended as pleasantly as it began. It dropped us back at Bergan on day 12 where I spent my final night nursing my ankle, which ultimately transpired to be fractured. Apparently a posterior malleolus fracture. Spent the next 6 weeks in a cast and a further 4 weeks in a boot. It is October 2024 as I finally revisit my notes and I am back to pootling around just fine. I have visited Berlin for the first time since last we spoke and am planning a Christmas weekend in Vienna as I type. Alls well that ends well.
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